Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of, Inc. or its affiliates. This is the make or break step where te skill is developed. That start…. Share it with us! My point was more about not taking off too much material initially, since you can't put it back, not so much about the tools used, and, as an addition, specifically for beginners, about how to use the tools so they don't take off too much material. Once you put the two boards together you will see places where they are tight or overlapping. This way you can maintain a tight show face. Remember less is more. Next, flip the board over and do the same thing from the other side till you break through. A chisel pushes in both directions, when being driven into solid material, therefore, upon the initial cut, don't place it right on the marking, place it a hairline's thickness away from the marking - once the thick material is removed, you can come back and nibble away at the remaining thin layer without much push forward, towards the marking, as you'd have if you drive it in while there'd still be solid material at the back of the chisel. Then, repeat the presses tell you are down about half way. Thanks! I like to use a storyboard to transfer the marks tot he end of the board. but always good to improve at both skills. If someone has a problem with chisels, he can use a rasp. Categorized: Woodworking, Your email address will not be published. I spent most of the day working on a set of drawers for a dresser. I do not mark out the angle to cut the tales at. About: I have been working with wood since I could stumble into the shop with my dad. Two things that I've found helpful. I use a chisel to slowly remove material tell the fit is tight. Keeping the reflection flat to the work piece, I cut down to the depth cut line. I will often remove material from both. Pikachu Bedside Table - a Diy Furniture Project Inspired by Pokemon. While keeping pressure on the board, use a marking knife and transfer the marks to the end of the pin board. The crucial detail, though, is that the saw must be perpendicular to the face of the board, otherwise the tails have a slightly different size/shape on the two sides, which can mess up the scribing of the pins. this will give you exact measurements to go off of. you can remove material from either the pins or tails. Make sure to x out the segments that need to be removed. Mark the Pins. First, like you, I prefer to cut the tails first, since the angles don't matter much. almost 40 dovetail joints today, and I just kept smiling! I just put the saw on the cut line and lean it a bit till it looks good to me. I am a welder by trade, but am dabbling in wood as a hobby. give it a try and see what it does. Your email address will not be published. this is just one method that does not require much thought or a pile of jigs. Thanks for the information. then come in at about a 30-degree angle and pair back to the stop cut that was just made. Also, there are thousands of ways to do it. A cut should be done by placing the saw slightly towards the material to be removed, not centered on the marking, so that ideally you cut down along the edge of the marking, not right through the marking. Remember this is not a skill that can be developed overnight. is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to It is no fun to cut out the wrong pieces. David Logan. Again, make sure to X out the segments that need to be removed. 3 years ago. The more you do it the better it will get. Set the pin board in the Moxon vise just slightly above the top of the vise and with a block the same height as the Moxon vise so you can set the tail board on top and line them up. Cutting: The Step-By-Step Step 1: Mark Your Depth Thank you for the awesome instructable. If you take off too much too fast you will have large gaps. Required fields are marked *. I start with a chisel set back about 1/16" or so from the depth line and make a quick down stroke along the line. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. I put the chisel right into the stop line and clean out the wood right back to the line under-cutting the joint slightly for a better fit. Sometimes I will use the square to put vertical lines down the face of the board to follow with he saw, but most of the time I just use the reflection in the saw to make sure it is square to the face. It is fairly quick to mark both sides of both boards, and you are making a line that you can trust. Before anything else, you need to know how deep you will need to cut. What they do is put a strip of blue painter's tape across the end of the board, then trace the tails onto the pins with a sharp knife. Then with a square, I transfer those marks across the top square tot he face of the board. In all honesty, it really does not matter. After going back and forth with the fitting presses and testing the fit you will eventually have a fit that works. Peel away the parts where the tails will be, and you're left with nice clean pieces of tape where the pins should be. You can always chisel away material after the cut is done, if the fit is too tight, but there's no way you can add material back, once you removed it. I start with a chisel set back about 1/16" or so from the depth line and make a quick down stroke along the line. This si far more exact, and it requires fewer tools. For most people you are not going to get it to fit right off the saw the first time. Nice description! Thank you ! Second, I saw a nice trick (in Fine Woodworking, I think) for helping with the pins. I wish I had this info in 1964 when I had to make dovetails into Imbuia wood a gard type of wood in my final year at Hihgh school. then come in at about a 30-degree angle and pair back to the stop cut that was just made. As an Amazon associate we earn affiliate commissions from qualifying purchases. Get To Know Never Before Shared Secrets Tips & Tricks By Experts And Veteran Craftsmen, Sign up below to get access to your FREE EBook. This is the simplest and easiest way I know to Hand cut a Dovetail joint. Then, repeat the presses tell you are down about half way. I know exactly what you are saying and I agree with you compleetly. Step 2: Mark the Tails A most excellent, 'ego-free,' non arrogant lesson from a good, Human teacher ! Nice instructable, would love to try this, it looks so satisfying! Be sure to not remove material from any edge that will be a final show edge. I suppose most woodworkers know this, it's meant for people who are just learning: cut on the inside of the material to be removed, both when you chisel away at the bottom of the pins and when you saw the sides of the pins. Next, it is time to just cut. It is so much fun. 10 Best Utility Knives in 2020 (Reviews) | The Edge Cutter, 10 Best Circular Saws Reviews for 2020 | Buying Guide, 10 Best Drills for Woodworking in 2020 [Reviews] | The Edge Cutter, 10 Best Drill Bits Set of 2020 | Reviews & Buying Guide, 10 Best Miter Saws in 2020 for your Workshop | The Edge Cutter. Dovetail Saw: Moxon Vise: How I made mine: Mallet: How I made mine: For the depth of the pins and tails, I like to use the actual thickness of the board rather than a marking gauge. This way I can make the same tales on all the boards. Set the pin board in the Moxon vise just slightly above the top of the vise and with a block the same height as the Moxon vise you can set the tail board on top and line them up. This is where your square comes in. it is much simpler them people think! The edge will make it easy to mark your way from the … Then, I chisel out the waste the same way I did with the tails. Very simple explanation on how too hope to try it soon thanks, Reply Verry true, but most people get into trouble with too much chisel work rather than saw work. I'm actually in the process of making some little dovetail boxes but I needed a bit of a push or a smidge of oomph in the right direction and this helped a lot thank you. First, I will rotate the board int he vise 90-degrees and cut down the depth line to remove the chunks on the outside edge. to make these marks I set them on the back side of the Moxon vise and make the mark on both sides of the board. on top of that, there may be small differences from board to board. it should require a bit of force to put together and be a bit of a struggle to take apart. I just find with my students that the danger is more with the fitting step then with the initial cutting. What do I mean by this: each cut has a finite width - one that's large enough to create unsightly gaps, if the cut is done on the wrong side of a marking, and also affect the joint's strength.

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